Tallinn keeps one of the best-preserved medieval old towns in northern Europe, a walled tangle of cobbled lanes, merchant houses and church spires on the edge of the Baltic. In summer it gets the cruise-ship crowds; in winter, under a dusting of snow and lit against the early dark, it looks like the inside of a snow globe and feels half-empty by comparison.
Walking the walls
The old town divides into the lower town, where the merchants lived, and Toompea hill above it, the seat of power. Climb to the viewing platforms on Toompea for the classic view across the red rooftops to the sea, then wind back down through the gates and along the surviving stretches of city wall with their fat round towers.
Staying warm
- Duck into a cafe for hot spiced wine and a slice of something; the Estonians take their coffee and cake seriously.
- Eat hearty in one of the cellar restaurants, where elk, game and dark bread suit the weather.
- Visit the Christmas market in the Town Hall Square if your timing is right; it is small, pretty and far less frantic than the German giants.
Getting there and around
Tallinn has cheap flights from several UK airports, and the old town is small enough to cover entirely on foot, so you will not need transport once you arrive. The airport is unusually close to the centre, a short tram ride away, which makes even a weekend feel worthwhile.
Dress for real cold; the wind off the Baltic has teeth and the temperature can sit well below freezing. But that is the trade for empty lanes, snow on the towers and a city that feels like a film set rather than a queue. Pair it with a quieter pace than you would keep in summer, and Tallinn rewards you handsomely.