Seville in summer is brutal; the Andalusian capital regularly bakes under temperatures that drive everyone indoors by midday. Seville in early spring is something else entirely: warm but not punishing, the orange trees in blossom and scenting the streets, the long evenings perfect for sitting outside. It is, by a distance, the best time to come.
The city in spring
This is when Seville is at its most seductive. The light is golden, the bitter-orange trees that line the streets fill the air with scent, and the temperature lets you walk all day rather than hiding from the sun. The great sights, the cathedral with its Giralda tower, the Alcazar palace with its gardens, the old Jewish quarter of Santa Cruz, are all best explored on foot, which spring makes a pleasure rather than an endurance.
How to spend the days
- Visit the Alcazar early to beat the queues, and leave time simply to sit in its gardens.
- Cross the river to the Triana district for a less polished, more local feel and excellent tapas.
- Eat the Sevillano way, grazing on small plates across several bars in an evening rather than sitting down to one big meal.
Timing it
Aim for the weeks before the big spring festivals, when the weather is lovely and the city is calmer, or come for the festivals themselves if you want the spectacle and do not mind the crowds and prices. Either way, book ahead, because spring is popular for good reason.
Flights from the UK are frequent and the airport is close to the centre. Give the city three or four days, walk everywhere, and surrender to the slow southern rhythm of late lunches and late nights. Seville rewards it. Come in spring and you get the city at its glorious best, before the heat sends it into hiding for the summer.