San Sebastian, on Spain's northern Basque coast, is built around one of the most beautiful city beaches in Europe, a perfect golden crescent in a sheltered bay. But people come here as much to eat as to swim, because this small city has a claim to being the finest place to eat in the world, with a density of great restaurants and bars that is genuinely astonishing.
The food
The Basque speciality is pintxos, the region's elaborate take on tapas, little creations laid out along the bar that you help yourself to, paying by the toothpick or the plate. The done thing is the txikiteo, a crawl from bar to bar in the old town, one pintxo and a small glass of the local cider or txakoli wine at each, then on to the next. It is the best way to eat anywhere, and a joy.
Beyond the bars
- Climb one of the hills that frame the bay, Monte Urgull or Monte Igueldo, for the classic view over the beach and town.
- Surf or swim; the Basque coast has serious waves, and nearby towns like Zarautz are surf centres.
- Take the coast road to fishing villages such as Getaria and Hondarribia for grilled fish straight off the boats.
When to go
The northern coast is greener and wetter than the Spanish stereotype, so it can rain even in summer, but that keeps it lush and comfortable when the south is baking. Late spring and early autumn are ideal, warm enough for the beach but quieter than the August peak.
San Sebastian is reachable by air via Bilbao or its own small airport, and the Basque coast rewards a few days of slow exploration by car. Come hungry, pace yourself across the pintxos bars, and build in time on the beach and the coast road. It is one of the great eating destinations of Europe, in one of its loveliest settings.