Madeira floats in the Atlantic off the coast of Africa, a steep green island of volcanic peaks and deep valleys that stays mild all winter. It is not a beach destination; the coast is mostly cliff and rock. It is a walker's island, and its great gift to walkers is the levadas, a centuries-old network of small water channels that contour around the mountains with footpaths running alongside.
What makes the levadas special
The levadas were built to carry water from the wet north of the island to the drier, sunnier south, and the paths that maintenance workers used are now walking routes. Because they follow the gradient of the water, many are surprisingly level despite the dramatic terrain, threading through laurel forest, along cliff edges and behind waterfalls. Some are gentle strolls; others are exposed and not for the faint-hearted.
Walking sensibly
- Match the route to your nerve; some levadas run along sheer drops with only a low edge, while others are broad and safe.
- Carry a torch for the tunnels, which some routes pass through, and a waterproof, because the high ground catches cloud.
- Check whether a route needs a guide or transport at the far end, as many are linear rather than circular.
Basing yourself
Funchal, the capital, is the natural base, a handsome town with gardens, markets and a cable car, and buses or tours reach many of the trailheads. Hire a car if you want freedom, but the roads are steep and winding, so take it slowly.
Winter is the ideal season: the air is mild, the island is green from the rains, and the summer crowds have gone. Days are warm enough for shirtsleeves on the move but cool in the cloud, so layer up. For a winter holiday that keeps you active rather than parked by a pool, Madeira and its levadas are a quiet triumph.