Transylvania, the heart of Romania, suffers from a reputation built almost entirely on vampires. The reality is far better: a region of medieval Saxon towns, fortified churches, painted squares and the Carpathian mountains rising green and wild behind them. Brasov, with its handsome old centre ringed by peaks, makes the ideal base for one of Europe's most rewarding and least crowded corners.
Brasov and around
Brasov's old town is a delight, a long central square lined with pastel buildings, a great Gothic church known as the Black Church, and medieval gates and towers, all watched over by forested mountains you can reach by cable car. From here, the famous castles are within easy reach, including the much-hyped one marketed to Dracula tourists, which is worth seeing for the building even if the legend is mostly invention.
The Saxon villages
- Visit the fortified Saxon churches, whole villages built around a church compound with walls and towers for defence, a unique survival.
- Explore Sighisoara, a perfectly preserved medieval citadel town, one of the prettiest in the region.
- Get out into the Carpathians for hiking, bears and some of the wildest forest left in Europe.
Practical notes
Romania is excellent value, with food, drink and rooms costing far less than in western Europe. Flights reach the country easily, and while a hire car gives the most freedom for the villages, trains and buses connect the main towns. The food is hearty and the welcome warm.
Allow several days, because the region rewards slow exploration: a day in Brasov, a day for the castles, a day or two for the Saxon villages and the mountains. Transylvania is one of those places that quietly exceeds every expectation, a corner of Europe that still feels like a discovery. Forget the vampires and come for the real thing.