The Italians nickname Bologna la grassa, the fat one, and they mean it as the highest praise. This is the food capital of a country obsessed with food, the home of tagliatelle al ragu, of mortadella and tortellini, of a daily devotion to eating well that runs through every street. It is also, conveniently, one of the most handsome and least touristy of Italy's major cities.
The eating
Forget what the rest of the world calls spaghetti bolognese; here the ragu goes with fresh tagliatelle, and it is a revelation. Eat tortellini in broth, mortadella sliced wafer-thin, and tagliatelle by the plateful, washed down with the local Lambrusco or a Sangiovese from the hills. The old market streets, the Quadrilatero, are lined with delis, bakers and stalls that have fed the city for generations.
Between meals
- Walk the porticoes; Bologna has miles of covered arcades, so you can stroll the whole city sheltered from sun or rain.
- Climb the leaning Asinelli tower for a view over the red rooftops, if it is open for visits.
- Wander the university quarter, one of the oldest universities in the world, which keeps the city young and lively.
Getting there
Bologna sits on Italy's main high-speed line, so it is a quick train ride from Florence, Milan or Venice, and its airport has direct UK flights. The centre is compact and walkable, and the porticoes mean you barely need an umbrella.
Come hungry and stay at least two nights. Bologna does not have a single overwhelming sight, which is exactly why it stays relatively quiet while Florence and Venice groan under visitors. What it has instead is a way of life built around the table, generous, unpretentious and deeply Italian. For anyone who travels to eat, it is close to perfect.