The Dolomites, in the far north of Italy, are among the most spectacular mountains in Europe: pale limestone towers and pinnacles that turn pink at sunset above green alpine meadows. The usual advice is to hire a car, but the region has an excellent and scenic network of buses, trains and cable cars, and seeing it without driving is not only possible but in many ways more relaxing.
Getting there and around
Reach the region by train to a gateway town such as Bolzano or Brunico, then switch to the local buses, which are frequent, punctual and reach the valleys and trailheads. In summer especially, services are timed to suit walkers, and cable cars and chairlifts whisk you up to the high ground without a steep climb, opening up walks that would otherwise need a full day's ascent.
Making it work
- Base yourself in a valley town on the bus network rather than somewhere remote, so you can reach the trails each day.
- Use the cable cars to gain height, then walk the high paths and ridges between lift stations, descending by lift if your legs give out.
- Check timetables in advance and note that mountain bus and lift services are seasonal, busiest in summer.
The walking
The Dolomites offer walking for every level, from gentle meadow strolls to serious high routes, and the scenery is reliably jaw-dropping. The famous viewpoints and refuges are well served by lifts and paths, so you can tailor each day to your fitness and the weather. Mountain huts serve hearty food and even offer beds for those wanting to walk hut to hut.
Going car-free saves the cost and stress of driving narrow mountain roads and hunting for parking at popular trailheads, which fill early in season. It also means you can enjoy a glass of wine with lunch and let someone else take the hairpins. For a relaxed, scenic and surprisingly easy way to experience these extraordinary mountains, the local network is the quiet secret.