Cornwall in August is a victim of its own beauty: gridlocked roads, full car parks, and the famous harbour towns so packed that the charm gets lost in the crush. The answer is twofold. Come in shoulder season, spring or autumn, and head for the quieter corners rather than the honeypots. Do both and you rediscover why people fell in love with Cornwall in the first place.
Why Fowey over Padstow
Padstow has become almost too successful, its small harbour heaving in season, nicknamed Padstein for the celebrity-chef empire that draws the crowds. On the south coast, Fowey offers a similar pleasure, a steep, pretty harbour town on a beautiful estuary, with far less of the hype and the queues. It makes a lovely base, with boat trips, coastal walks and good food, at a gentler pace than the north-coast hotspots.
The quieter Cornwall
- Walk the South West Coast Path, which is glorious and empty out of high summer; even short stretches reward the effort.
- Explore the south coast estuaries and the Roseland peninsula, softer and quieter than the dramatic north.
- Visit the famous gardens, which are at their best in spring, weeks ahead of the rest of the country thanks to the mild climate.
Timing and travel
Spring brings the gardens into flower and autumn keeps the sea warm from the summer, and both avoid the school-holiday crush on the roads. The long drive or train down the peninsula is part of the deal; once there, a car helps for the quieter spots, but coastal buses and the ferries across the estuaries let you slow down.
Pack for changeable weather, because the Atlantic brings sun and squalls in quick succession whatever the season. But that is Cornwall, and a blustery cliff walk followed by a cream tea or a pint by the harbour is the whole point. Sidestep the peak and the honeypots, and the county still delivers everything that made its name.